Tour du Mont Blanc Hiking Guide: Everything You Need to Know for an Epic Adventure
The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is one of the most iconic long-distance hikes in Europe, encircling the Mont Blanc massif and passing through three countries: France, Italy, and Switzerland. With stunning alpine scenery, charming villages, and diverse cultural experiences, the TMB offers something for every hiker. Whether you prefer to backpack and camp in tents, stay in cozy mountain refuges, or find comfort in off-trail hotels, this guide will provide all the information you need to plan and execute a successful hike on the Tour du Mont Blanc.
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Table of Contents
Overview of the Tour du Mont Blanc
Trail Length and Duration
The Tour du Mont Blanc is approximately 170 kilometers (106 miles) long and typically takes around 10 to 12 days to complete, depending on your pace and itinerary. The trail offers a variety of terrains, from gentle valley paths to challenging high mountain passes, making it accessible to hikers of different skill levels.
Route Highlights
Some of the highlights of the TMB include:
Les Houches: A charming village at the start of the trail in the Chamonix Valley, France.
Courmayeur: An Italian town known for its picturesque streets and delicious cuisine.
Champex-Lac: A serene Swiss village with a beautiful lake, perfect for a rest day.
Col de la Seigne: A high mountain pass offering stunning views of the Mont Blanc massif.
Preparing for the Hike
Physical Preparation
The TMB is a demanding hike that requires a good level of fitness. Training should include:
Cardiovascular exercise: Such as running, cycling, or swimming to build stamina.
Strength training: Focusing on the legs, core, and upper body to handle the demands of carrying a backpack.
Hiking practice: Including day hikes and multi-day trips to get used to the trail conditions and carrying a loaded pack.
Gear and Packing List
What you bring will depend on your accommodation choices. Here's a general list:
For Backpacking and Camping:
Tent (lightweight and weather-resistant)
Sleeping bag (suitable for alpine conditions)
Sleeping pad
Backpack (50-70 liters)
Cooking equipment (stove, fuel, pot)
Food supplies (dehydrated meals, snacks)
For Staying in Refuges and Hotels:
Backpack (30-40 liters)
Sleeping bag liner (some refuges require them)
Lightweight clothes for evenings
General Gear:
Sturdy hiking boots
Trekking poles
Waterproof jacket and pants
Layered clothing system
Hat and gloves
Sun protection (hat, sunglasses, sunscreen)
First aid kit
Navigation tools (map, compass, GPS)
Hydration system (water bottles or hydration bladder)
Accommodation Options
Backpacking and Camping
Camping along the TMB provides a sense of adventure and independence. While wild camping is regulated and sometimes restricted, there are designated camping areas and campsites where you can pitch your tent. Some refuges also offer camping spots nearby.
Pros:
Flexibility in your schedule
Lower costs
Immersive nature experience
Cons:
Heavier pack
Less comfort
Staying in Mountain Refuges
Mountain refuges (or huts) are a popular choice for many TMB hikers. These offer a bed, meals, and a social atmosphere. Most refuges require reservations, especially during peak season (June to September).
Pros:
Lighter pack
Hot meals and showers
Social interaction with other hikers
Cons:
Need to stick to a schedule
Can be crowded
Hotels and Off-Trail Accommodations
For those who prefer more comfort, staying in hotels and guesthouses along the trail or slightly off-trail is a great option. This allows you to enjoy private rooms, en-suite bathrooms, and other amenities.
Pros:
High comfort level
Privacy and better rest
Opportunity to experience local culture
Cons:
Higher costs
Requires planning for transport to and from the trail
Camping Regulations
France
In France, wild camping is generally prohibited in the national parks, including the sections of the TMB that pass through such protected areas. However, there are some designated camping areas and campsites along the route where you can legally pitch your tent. It's important to follow Leave No Trace principles and to respect any local regulations and signage regarding camping.
Italy
Italy has similar restrictions on wild camping, especially in the Val Veny and Val Ferret areas. Camping is often only allowed near refuges where there are designated camping areas. Always check with the local authorities or the refuges themselves to ensure you are camping in permissible locations. The rules are strictly enforced to protect the natural environment.
Switzerland
Switzerland has the strictest regulations when it comes to wild camping. It is generally prohibited in the Swiss National Park and other protected areas. However, there are campsites available in many of the villages along the Swiss section of the TMB. As with the other countries, it is essential to follow Leave No Trace principles and to camp only in designated areas.
Detailed Route Description
The TMB can be hiked in either direction (clockwise or counterclockwise), but this guide will follow the traditional counterclockwise route starting from Les Houches. See the next section for the pros and cons of hiking each direction!
Day 1: Les Houches to Les Contamines (14 km / 8.7 miles)
Highlights:
Cable car ride from Les Houches to Bellevue
Col de Voza (1,653 m)
Bionnassay Glacier views
The first day is a gentle introduction to the TMB, with beautiful views of the Mont Blanc massif and surrounding valleys. The trail descends through forested paths and alpine meadows to Les Contamines, a charming village where you can find campsites, refuges, and hotels.
Day 2: Les Contamines to Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (18 km / 11.2 miles)
Highlights:
Notre-Dame de la Gorge
Col du Bonhomme (2,329 m)
This is a more challenging day with significant elevation gain. Starting from Les Contamines, the trail passes the picturesque church of Notre-Dame de la Gorge before ascending through forested areas and alpine pastures to the Col du Bonhomme. The final ascent to the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme offers rewarding views.
Day 3: Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme to Les Chapieux (10 km / 6.2 miles)
Highlights:
Col des Fours (2,665 m)
Descent into the Vallée des Glaciers
This shorter day includes a climb to the Col des Fours, one of the highest points on the TMB. The descent into Les Chapieux is steep but offers stunning views of the valley below. Les Chapieux is a small hamlet with a few accommodation options, including a refuge and a campsite.
Day 4: Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta (15 km / 9.3 miles)
Highlights:
Col de la Seigne (2,516 m)
Entry into Italy
Crossing the Col de la Seigne marks your entry into Italy. The trail descends into the Val Veny, with spectacular views of the Aiguille des Glaciers. Rifugio Elisabetta is a popular refuge offering dormitory-style accommodation and meals.
Day 5: Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur (18 km / 11.2 miles)
Highlights:
Lac Combal
Val Veny
Courmayeur
This day includes a gentle descent along the Val Veny, passing Lac Combal before reaching Courmayeur. This bustling Italian town is a great place for a rest day, with numerous hotels, restaurants, and shops.
Day 6: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti (12 km / 7.5 miles)
Highlights:
Val Ferret
Rifugio Bertone
After leaving Courmayeur, the trail ascends to Rifugio Bertone, offering panoramic views of the Italian side of Mont Blanc. The route continues along the scenic Val Ferret to Rifugio Bonatti, known for its hospitality and stunning location.
Day 7: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly (20 km / 12.4 miles)
Highlights:
Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m)
Entry into Switzerland
This is a long but rewarding day, crossing the Grand Col Ferret into Switzerland. The descent into the Swiss Val Ferret leads to La Fouly, a small village with various accommodation options, including a campsite and guesthouses.
Day 8: La Fouly to Champex-Lac (15 km / 9.3 miles)
Highlights:
Bovine route
Champex-Lac
The trail from La Fouly to Champex-Lac is relatively gentle, passing through picturesque Swiss villages and forests. Champex-Lac, with its serene lake, is an ideal place for a rest day, offering hotels, restaurants, and a campsite.
Day 9: Champex-Lac to Trient (16 km / 9.9 miles)
Highlights:
Fenêtre d'Arpette (2,665 m) or Bovine route
Trient Glacier views
There are two route options for this day: the challenging Fenêtre d'Arpette or the easier Bovine route. Both offer stunning views, but the Fenêtre d'Arpette is more demanding. Trient is a small village with a refuge and a campsite.
Day 10: Trient to Argentière (17 km / 10.6 miles)
Highlights:
Col de Balme (2,195 m)
Entry back into France
Crossing the Col de Balme marks your return to France. The descent into Argentière offers spectacular views of the Chamonix Valley.
Clockwise vs. Counterclockwise: Which Direction to Hike the Tour du Mont Blanc?
Choosing the direction in which to hike the Tour du Mont Blanc can significantly influence your experience. Each direction offers unique advantages and disadvantages, catering to different preferences and hiking styles.
Hiking Clockwise
Pros:
Gentler Start: The clockwise route often begins with more gradual ascents, allowing hikers to acclimate to the terrain and build stamina gradually. This can be especially beneficial for those who are new to long-distance hiking or those who prefer a slower start.
Fewer Crowds: Since the traditional direction is counterclockwise, hiking clockwise can offer a more solitary experience, with fewer hikers traveling in the same direction. This can enhance the sense of tranquility and immersion in nature.
Different Perspectives: By hiking clockwise, you'll encounter views and scenery from unique angles, offering a fresh perspective on the iconic landscapes of the Mont Blanc massif. This can make familiar sights feel novel and exciting.
Cons:
Steeper Climbs Later On: As you progress, you may encounter steeper ascents later in your hike, which can be challenging when fatigue starts to set in. This direction might demand more stamina towards the latter stages of the trek.
Potential for Fewer Social Interactions: With fewer hikers traveling in the same direction, opportunities for social interaction and camaraderie may be reduced. For some, meeting fellow hikers is a highlight of the TMB experience.
Hiking Counterclockwise
Pros:
Traditional Route: The counterclockwise direction is the most popular and traditional way to hike the TMB. This means you'll have access to a wealth of resources, guidebooks, and online forums tailored to this route, making planning and navigation easier.
Easier Terrain Later: Many hikers find that the counterclockwise route saves the easier, more gradual descents for the end of the hike, when they are more tired. This can be a welcome relief after tackling the more challenging sections earlier on.
More Social Interaction: With a higher number of hikers traveling counterclockwise, you'll have more opportunities to meet and interact with fellow adventurers, share experiences, and build a sense of community along the trail.
Cons:
Busy Trails: The popularity of the counterclockwise direction means you may encounter busier trails, especially during peak season. This can lead to crowded refuges and campsites, and a less serene hiking experience.
Steeper Ascents Early: The initial stages of the counterclockwise route involve some steep climbs, which can be tough for hikers who haven't yet found their trail legs. This might require a higher level of fitness from the start.
Ultimately, the choice between hiking clockwise or counterclockwise on the TMB depends on your personal preferences, fitness level, and desired hiking experience. Both directions offer stunning views, challenging climbs, and unforgettable moments, ensuring that whichever way you choose, your Tour du Mont Blanc adventure will be a memorable one.
Common Phrases and Words to Learn
Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc takes you through three different countries, each with its own language: French in France, Italian in Italy, and German in the German-speaking part of Switzerland. Learning some basic phrases and words in these languages can greatly enhance your experience, helping you communicate with locals, understand signs, and navigate through the regions.
French Phrases (France)
Greetings and Politeness:
Bonjour (bohn-zhoor) – Hello
Bonsoir (bohn-swahr) – Good evening
Merci (mehr-see) – Thank you
S'il vous plaît (seel voo pleh) – Please
Excusez-moi (ehk-skew-zay mwah) – Excuse me
Basic Questions:
Où est… ? (oo eh) – Where is…?
Combien ça coûte ? (kohm-byen sah koot) – How much does it cost?
Parlez-vous anglais ? (par-lay voo ahn-glay) – Do you speak English?
Je ne comprends pas (zhuh nuh kohm-prohn pah) – I don’t understand
Pouvez-vous m’aider ? (poo-vay voo may-day) – Can you help me?
Directional Phrases:
Tout droit (too drwah) – Straight ahead
À gauche (ah gohsh) – To the left
À droite (ah drwat) – To the right
Près d’ici (preh dee-see) – Nearby
Loin (lwan) – Far
Accommodation and Food:
Chambre (shahm-bruh) – Room
Réservation (ray-zair-vah-syon) – Reservation
Petit déjeuner (puh-tee day-zhuh-nay) – Breakfast
Dîner (dee-nay) – Dinner
Eau (oh) – Water
Italian Phrases (Italy)
Greetings and Politeness:
Buongiorno (bwohn-zhohr-noh) – Good morning
Buonasera (bwoh-nah-seh-rah) – Good evening
Grazie (grah-tsee-eh) – Thank you
Per favore (pehr fah-voh-ray) – Please
Mi scusi (mee skooh-zee) – Excuse me
Basic Questions:
Dove si trova… ? (doh-veh see troh-vah) – Where is…?
Quanto costa? (kwahn-toh koh-stah) – How much does it cost?
Parla inglese? (par-lah een-gleh-zeh) – Do you speak English?
Non capisco (nohn kah-pees-koh) – I don’t understand
Può aiutarmi? (pwaw ah-yoo-tar-mee) – Can you help me?
Directional Phrases:
Dritto (dree-toh) – Straight ahead
A sinistra (ah see-nee-strah) – To the left
A destra (ah deh-strah) – To the right
Vicino (vee-chee-noh) – Nearby
Lontano (lohn-tah-noh) – Far
Accommodation and Food:
Camera (kah-meh-rah) – Room
Prenotazione (preh-noh-tah-tsee-oh-neh) – Reservation
Colazione (koh-lah-tsee-oh-neh) – Breakfast
Cena (cheh-nah) – Dinner
Acqua (ahk-kwah) – Water
German Phrases (Switzerland)
Greetings and Politeness:
Guten Tag (goo-ten tahg) – Hello/Good day
Guten Abend (goo-ten ah-bent) – Good evening
Danke (dahn-keh) – Thank you
Bitte (bit-teh) – Please
Entschuldigung (ehnt-shool-dee-goong) – Excuse me
Basic Questions:
Wo ist…? (voh ist) – Where is…?
Wie viel kostet das? (vee feel kohs-tet dahs) – How much does it cost?
Sprechen Sie Englisch? (shpreh-ken zee ehng-lish) – Do you speak English?
Ich verstehe nicht (ikh fehr-shtay-eh nikht) – I don’t understand
Können Sie mir helfen? (koe-nen zee meer hel-fen) – Can you help me?
Directional Phrases:
Geradeaus (geh-rah-deh-ows) – Straight ahead
Links (links) – To the left
Rechts (rekhts) – To the right
In der Nähe (in der nay-eh) – Nearby
Weit (vite) – Far
Accommodation and Food:
Zimmer (tsim-mer) – Room
Reservierung (reh-zair-vee-roong) – Reservation
Frühstück (froosh-took) – Breakfast
Abendessen (ah-bent-ess-en) – Dinner
Wasser (vah-ser) – Water
Learning these basic phrases can make your journey smoother and more enjoyable. Locals appreciate the effort, and it often leads to more positive interactions and a richer travel experience. Carry a small phrasebook or download a translation app on your phone for quick reference while on the trail.
Enjoy Your Trek!
Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc is an unforgettable adventure that challenges and rewards in equal measure. Whether you choose to backpack and camp, stay in mountain refuges, or indulge in the comfort of hotels, the TMB offers a unique experience that combines breathtaking scenery, diverse cultures, and a profound sense of accomplishment. By understanding the regulations for camping in France, Italy, and Switzerland, and carefully considering whether to hike clockwise or counterclockwise, you can tailor the trek to suit your preferences and abilities. Whether it's the challenge of the high passes, the tranquility of alpine meadows, or the warmth of mountain hospitality, the Tour du Mont Blanc promises an adventure of a lifetime.
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When you purchase gear through these links, you may contribute a small commission to us as an affiliate, at no additional cost to you, which helps us continue providing valuable educational content for free! We appreciate your support, as it enables us to break down barriers and make outdoor education accessible to everyone. Happy trails!
About the Author
Shannon is a passionate globetrotter who thrives on exploring diverse landscapes, with a particular love for hiking in unique and remote locations. With a keen eye for adventure and a heart for nature, Shannon shares about bucket list adventures to inspire fellow travelers to discover the world's hidden gems.